Over the last year I’ve logged over 1000 miles on the bike and over 40 miles running. I’ve used it inside, outside, at the gym, with a heart rate monitor, synced it to my phone, in races, on trail runs, as a watch, with bluetooth headphones, on centuries, mountain biking, skiing, and hiking. I even took it with me mini golfing once (I really don’t think the golf mode was designed with this in mind). There are a ton of great reviews online already detailing each screen and feature so I won’t go over much of that. Instead of the normal pros and cons sections, I’m going to break it down by activity.

Cycling

My unit came with the handlebar mount for my bike. It wraps around the stem very easily and securely. It takes only a few seconds to switch between bikes. My commuter bike has a quill style stem which is a little on the skinny side to fit correctly. It worked better around the handlebar on that bike. One of the nice things about the ACTV is it’s square and you can slide it into the mount from any direction. No matter how the mount is oriented, you can easily turn the unit 90 degrees so the display is oriented correctly towards you. I did not get the Motorola brand cadence/speed sensor. I almost bought it, but the Garmin sensor was about $10 cheaper. They are both ANT+ so it worked without any problem. The same went for the heart rate monitor, the Garmin was about $10 less.

When you start a cycling workout and choose the outdoors setting, it pulls your speed and distance from GPS whenever possible. The advantage of this is you don’t need the sensor to start using it on your bike. You won’t get cadence (or power if you have a power meter), but if you already have a bike computer you can use the MOTOACTV for the GPS, workout log, and music. As an ANT+ head unit, it has most everything you need. You can display up to 6 metrics at once including duration, speed, distance, heart rate, cadence, calories, power. You can also view a map of where you are and the route you took during a workout. The screen is so small though that the map is really difficult to use. You can set it to pause automatically when you stop and resume when you get going again. You can do time splits and even pre-program structured workouts which will give you coaching cues if you have headphones connected. This worked pretty well for interval training and there are a number of Carmichael designed training plans to use if you want. The MOTOACTV site has a route mapping tool, but no support to import/export with other sites like MapMyRide or Strava. The mapping tool didn’t really make much sense because you can’t add a route to a planned workout and get turn by turn directions, a feature I would love to see added in a future software update. MOTOACTV now allows you to export your workout data to TCX, so you can add it Strava.

The major advantage the MOTOACTV has over other devices is the built in MP3 player. Adding music and playlists were a breeze. You can control volume, pause/play, and next song without going into the music screen. If you plan on using this feature, splurge and get some bluetooth headphones. A cord dangling between you and your handlebars gets a little annoying. Plus, the headphone jack cover isn’t attached to the device and I can’t believe I haven’t lost it yet. Motorola has some software to analyze your workout identify which songs helped you ramp up your effort level. It worked okay but it’s not intuitive to set up and it’s a little gimmicky. The more you use it, the better it’s supposed to get. It doesn’t really work for interval training. It would be better if it automatically bounced between a rest playlist and a sprint playlist. I got a pair of Novero bluetooth headphones and connection was painless.

The major disadvantage and the primary reason I wouldn’t recommend it for cycling only is the battery life. Using all of the battery saving methods, you can barely squeak by and put in a century. That’s setting it up with data sampling every 3 seconds, turning the screen off automatically after a few seconds, auto-pausing, and the brightness turned down to the lowest setting. That gives you GPS and the speed/cadence sensor. You’ll probably run out of battery if you add heart rate monitor, power meter, music, or link it to your smartphone. Turning off the GPS will greatly extend the battery life, but you miss out on one of the major selling points. I found turning the screen off saves the most battery. You’re hopefully not looking down constantly at your stats, but it is a little annoying to have to push the button to get the screen back on. There are a number of programming changes that Motorola could make and push out an update to improve battery life. If they ever do, I’d be willing to reconsider my judgement. Riding with full fingered gloves provides a few frustrations with the touch screen as well.

The 8GB version retails for $260. Garmin offers the Edge 500 for $250 and the Edge 200 for $130, both use GPS and are great options. If you really want the music, use your phone or a small mp3 player. The additional benefit of this is you can run the wire under your jersey to keep it out of the way saving you the cost (and battery limits) of bluetooth headphones.

Running

The MOTOACTV is the best single device I’ve seen for running. Garmin has 3 options at this price (or lower) which I have never used, but none of them offer music. Sure you can use your smartphone and get GPS, tracking, coaching cues, and music. You can even buy a bluetooth heart rate monitor to hook up to your phone. But, where are you going to put the phone when you run? They make armbands, but they are binding, slide down your arm, and you can’t see the data it is recording while you are running. The MOTOACTV does it all and puts it on your wrist.

On your wrist, the MOTOACTV is a little odd. Square watches aren’t too common and it looks a little over-sized on my wrist. The size is comparable to the Garmin and Suunto options, maybe just a tad smaller. I really dodn’t care though since I’m not looking to make a fashion statement. The display gives what you’d expect and is similar to the cycling workout. Instead of cadence or power you get pace, which was most useful to me.

Again, I feel the wireless headphones are a must. You can get away with wired in cold weather if are you’re wearing long sleeves and run the wire under your shirt and down your arm. Otherwise, wireless is the way to go. Motorola sells an armband, but my biggest contention with that is it’s hard to read while running without stopping. When the product was first launched, Motorola offered a pair of bluetooth headphones with a built in heart rate monitor. They were earbud style so presumably measured your heart rate in your ear canal. These headphones were only on the market for a couple months and I heard they were plagued with problems. That was about 18 months ago and there has been no word on if they will ever see the light of day again. If they work out the bugs and offer them up again, it would be a killer combo and really make the MOTOACTV shine. Music, GPS, and heart rate with nothing more than a watch and some earbuds. No wires, no straps, no armbands makes running simple and the way it should be while still getting all the cool technology benefits. Garmin also makes an ANT+ foot sensor which should work with this device too, but I have not tried it.

Battery life is still a concern, but not as much. I’ll often go for rides lasting 3-4 hours, but my run workouts rarely exceed 70 minutes. I’m not a distance runner and the most I was training for was a 10k distance. Ultra-marathoners may be cutting it close if you have heart rate and music going. Turning off the screen will help get the most out of the battery.

Triathlon

It’s great for running and it works fine on the bike. The device slips out of the wrist strap, into the bike mount, and back onto the wrist strap with ease. You wouldn’t lose any time in transition switching it back and forth if you really wanted the unit on your handlebars during the bike. If the unit was fully waterproof, it would give Garmin stiff competition in the triathlon market, especially on the training side where music helps get through a lot of solo miles. It’s not. Not even close, so it’s a deal breaker. I did use it for an Xterra triathlon race last summer, but I didn’t put it on or hit start until I got into the first transition. I had no idea what my swim split was until the organizers posted the results.

On the Slopes/Trails

I took the MOTOACTV skiing at Eldora one day. I didn’t find it offered much data of interest. I was hoping the autolap option would lap each run, but it just started a new lap every mile traveled instead. Full fingered gloves added a limitation on that day as well. You can’t use the touchscreen and the physical buttons are hard to use with ski gloves. Really cold fingers don’t work with touch screens too well either.

I tested the MOTOACTV hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park and trail running in the foothills of Boulder. My big complaint here is I lost GPS signal frequently and for long periods of time. I didn’t have that problem on flatter terrain or even riding in the mountains. I’ve used other GPS units in mountain terrain and under heavy tree coverage. Losing a signal comes with the territory. I tried keeping the unit on my wrist and also using the clip accessory on the top of my pack. The MOTOACTV was particularly ill equipped in this regard, losing the signal for 20 minutes at a time or more. GPS uses up battery life. Searching for a GPS signal gobbles it up even faster.

Where the Motorola MOTOACV Succeeds:

• Syncs workout data via WiFi, no need to connect to computer
• Running
• Music, GPS, heart rate all in one small unit
• Connects with sensors flawlessly
• ANT+ and Bluetooth standards
• Universal microsd charging port

Areas for Improvement:

• Battery life
• Waterproofing
• Link routing to workout and give turn by turn directions
• The user interface of the online workout planner can be frustrating
• GPS signal on mountain trails
• Allow battery saving settings to change mid-workout

Disclosure: I received a complementary unit and some accessories from Motorola. My opinions of the MOTOACTV were unchanged by this generous offer.

Frameset

The frame and fork account for the biggest differences between bikes. The materials and the geometry will determine the handling characteristics, weight, comfort, and performance. Everything else is just a matter of components. Frame materials as you probably know are steel, aluminum, titanium, and carbon. Each material has different characteristics and the way the builder assembles the parts can dramatically change the feel of the bike in terms of handling, comfort, and power transfer. The golden balance is “laterally stiff” (side to side stiffness is more efficient at transferring power and is gives more predictable and responsive handling) and “vertically compliant” (up and down vibration reduction) all while being lightweight. This is why carbon is such a cool material for bike frames. Layering carbon in different orientations allows infinite options to achieve that golden balance, something that is not possible with metal. However, with metal there are things frame builders can do to achieve the golden balance that you can’t do with carbon.

Geometry

The geometry is all about how the bike fits you and what position the bike puts you in when you’re on it. Position is a balance between comfort and efficiency. Some bikes will have a more upright position. This makes you more stable and confident around corners and is generally more comfortable. You build handling skills faster and with more confidence. You learn how to spin and refine your pedal stroke more easily. The trade off is sacrificed efficiency in power transfer and aerodynamics. Race geometries are theoretically more efficient, however they are only efficient and fast if you can maintain the proper riding position. A more aggressive position will lower your hands in relation to your hips. For many people, this will cause your lower back and hips to scoop forward unless your hamstrings are flexible enough and you have a really strong core. As soon as your hips’ angle changes you will lose much of the efficiency you would otherwise gain and it could cause back pain, numb hands, or knee problems. As your riding skills and strength improves you can adjust the fit of the bike to be a little more aggressive and power efficient. If you get to a point where the bike’s geometry (not your skill, strength, or flexibility) is the limiting factor to getting more efficient, you’ve outgrown the bike. If you find yourself drooling over the latest greatest wunderbike with aero this and carbon that, it’s not a sign you’ve outgrown your current bike. That’s just bike lust. It never goes away so just get used to it.

There is no way to determine a bike’s characteristics and fit without riding it. Without riding a lot different bikes for many hours it is really difficult to tell the difference between characteristics. Handling characteristics do differ, but not nearly as much as manufacturers and their marketing staff want you to believe. All of the major manufacturers make excellent and well tested bikes, So it really comes down to fit. Whatever bike you choose, keep about $250 of your budget reserved for a professional fitting. The fitting might only cost about $100, but to really dial it in, you may need to buy a different handlebar or stem or something.

On entry to intermediate level bikes the biggest distinguishers will be frame material and drive train components. It’s not until you get into the $4000+ range that you start seeing really aggressive geometries, radically different building techniques, internally routed cables, aerodynamic tubes, integrated seat masts, and other distinguishing features some people look for in frames. These little details are nice but they probably aren’t things you’ll miss on even your second road bike.

Components

Every other item on the bike is a component. About half of the components make up the drive train which is the most important consideration in this category. It is also one of the biggest factors that determines the price. You have Shimano vs SRAM. There’s Campagnolo too, but it is much more expensive and not as prevalent.

Components wear out and eventually need to be replaced so it’s not essential that you have the greatest to start with. As you get more into cycling and want to upgrade, this is one spot to spend your money. That said, the only “real” difference between the three tiers of either brand is weight. And the weight difference isn’t that much. Anything that is 105/Rival or up is super solid, reliable, and lightweight. Once you start going down past those levels things change. Heavier, needs adjustment more frequently, and features start disappearing. For example the Tiagra shifters work very differently than 105->Dura Ace. Gearing is another big difference with the lower component levels.

Gears

Gears are measured in number of teeth and number of gears. On the front you have 3 options. Standard double (53/39), triple, or compact double (50/34). The compact is a really nice balance between the two. Lower gearing (for hills) than the standard and lighter weight than the triple.

On the back you have a cassette cluster of 9,10, or 11 sprockets. 10 is the most common. 2×10 refers to 2 chainrings in the front and 10 cogs on the cassette in the back. This gives you 20 different gears. This is the most common setup on road bikes. Mountain bikes are usually 3×9. Tiagra and lower often do not have a 2×10 option. It is usually 2×9. Another reason to go with 105 or up. The gear choices on a cassette can range a great deal. A very common size is 12-25. Until you start riding more, don’t stress too much about the gearing or changing components to change the gearing. If it comes down to two identical bikes with different gear ratios, go with the compact crank and the widest range on the cassette.

Wheels and other Components

Saddle, seat post, stem, water bottle cage, handlebar, cables and a bunch of other small parts make up the rest of the bike. The only three things you really have to factor in are wheels, saddle, and pedals. All of these are very easily changed on the bike later. Saddle is 100% a matter of comfort. Pedals are 100% a matter of preference and are usually a separate purchase. Wheels & tires, however, can vary wildly in terms of weight and handling characteristics. No other component will make as much difference on those two factors as wheels and tires.

Picking a wheel set is even more overwhelming than picking a bike. There are way more options and variables. Spoke count, material, weight, tire system, hubs, bearings, and rim depth are just the major variables. Luckily the bike will come with wheels. Typically manufacturers pair wheels at the same level as the rest of the components. A bike with Ultegra components will probably have nicer wheels than a bike with 105 components. Two of the most popular wheels you’ll find on bikes are Mavic Aksium and Mavic Ksyrium. The Ksyriums are a little nicer, but both are really solid. Any other wheels you see on bikes are probably their house brand. Nothing wrong with house brand wheels, they are usually very well built and excellent all-around wheels. Judging wheels by the rest of the components is typically a safe thing to do because mfg’s know it can affect the ride so much. It’s not a place where they cut corners. Put crappy wheels on a nice bike and the rider will blame the frame for crappy performance. Handlebar, brakes, cables, tubes, headset, and seat posts are entirely a different matter. However, they really don’t matter when you are new to the sport so don’t stress about them.

Find a bike that fits, is comfortable, has 105/Rival or better, is $250 under your max price, and fun when you go around corners. Head over to a few different local bike shops and start test riding. Don’t research online, don’t pick up the latest issue of Bicycling, don’t even look at the price tags. Just go test ride at least 12 different bikes split between 7 different brands and 3 different shops. Each test ride should be at least 15 minutes and include a couple sharp turns and a 3% hill. You probably won’t start noticing any differences between them until about the 5th or 6th test ride.

Geeky Tip

Snap a photo of each bike you test with your phone and jot down a couple notes right after the ride.

This is a members-only event. Current 2012 members have already been sent a special invitation with all of the details. If you did not get this, please contact us using the form at the bottom of this post. If you haven’t yet joined or renewed for the 2012 season, you can join online and then join us for the free brunch and special event!

Learn more about Stage 6 of the US Pro Cycling Challenge.

Map of Race Route in Boulder

2012 Chip Seal Schedule

Week of June 11

James Canyon Drive / Overland Drive – top of James Canyon to intersection with Lefthand Canyon Drive.

Week of June 18

Lefthand Canyon Drive – James Canyon Drive to Foothills Highway (U.S. 36)
North 73rd Street – Nelson Road to Niwot Road
St. Vrain Road – 75th Street, east to Longmont city limits.

Week of June 25

North 75th Street – Highway 66 to Nelson Road
Niwot Road – 63rd Street to the Diagonal Highway (SH119)
Jay Road – U.S. 36 (in Boulder) to 47th Street

Week of July 2

Jay Road – 47th Street to 75th Street
Baseline Road – City of Boulder (east of 55th) to Cherryvale Road

I created an interactive map to show where all these projects are happening.

It usually takes a couple months or sometimes even a full season until the surface completely seals and starts to feel smooth again. On the plus side potholes, cracks, and other road hazards will be greatly reduced.

Loose chip can be messy and even dangerous. It is strongly advised to avoid these roads for a couple weeks after they’ve been chip sealed. The Boulder County website has some more information and may have more up to date information on the progress of these projects.

Q:What should I wear?
A: Aside from a helmet we really don’t have any sort of dress code. 96% of us wear cycling shorts and a cycling jersey, but spandex is optional. Dress appropriately for the weather. It’s best to avoid loose pant legs and shoe laces. They tend to get caught up in your chainring.

Q: Am I supposed to wear underwear under my cycling shorts?
A: No. Cycling shorts are designed to be worn skin to chamois.

Q: What’s a chamois?
A:It’s actually pronounced “shammy”. It’s the pad sewn into cycling shorts.

One of many chamois designs

Q:Should I use chamois cream? Do I put it on my chamois or skin?
A: These are highly personal choices. There really are no wrong answers. Experiment and figure out what works best for you. Just don’t accidentally mix up your chamois cream with your energy gel.

Q: What’s up with bib shorts?
A: Bib shorts are essentially cycling shorts with suspenders built in. Sorta. They offer two major advantages over regular shorts. First, they help keep your chamois in place better. Second, they eliminate the elastic waistband which can get irritating after an hour or so when hunched over in a more aggressive riding position. Bibs are more expensive than shorts and fit can be a little trickier depending on your body proportions. Bathroom breaks take a little more wardrobe re-arranging as well.

Q: What’s the big deal about cycling specific clothing? Can’t I ride in general workout clothes?
A: Cycling clothing is designed specifically with the body mechanics of riding a bike. It is designed to be close fitting so when you are going 15+ mph your t-shirt isn’t flapping around and so your gym shorts don’t catch the breeze and ride up. There are other little details that beginning riders may not notice right away and experienced cyclists take for granted. For example, a cycling jersey is cut shorter in front at the bottom because when you are leaned over on a bike you don’t need the extra material. It’s also cut a little longer in the back where you do need it. The sleeves are oriented for your arms to be extended out to your handlebars. Likewise, a long sleeve jersey has slightly longer sleeves. Pockets are on the back of a jersey so you aren’t forced to carry things near your hips which are constantly moving as you pedal. If you are trying on cycling clothing for the first time at the store, it will probably feel very awkward when you are standing or sitting up straight. However, once you get into a riding position, it will all makes sense.

Q: Do I need to match my shoes to my bike to my helmet to my bar tape to my saddle to my gloves to my socks to my jersey?
A: Only if you are vain and have a lot of money.

Q: Should I shave my legs?
A: This is also a highly personal choice. Most female club members shave. Most male club members don’t. It’s totally up to you.

Q: Won’t shaving my legs make me faster?
A: No.

Q: But what about the aerodynamic drag of…
A: No, it won’t make you any faster.

Q: What kind of bike do I need?
A: On road rides 98% of us show up on a road bike (with drop bars). A few members ride commuter bikes (road bike with a flat bar). You can ride whatever you’d like but we need you to maintain about a 15 mph pace on the flats if you want to stay with the group. One time a member showed up with a cargo basket bike and dropped all of us. Keep in mind, he also averages something like 300-400 miles a week.
On Dirty Thursdays, we ride on dirt trails and singletrack. A mountain bike is appropriate for these rides. And no, you don’t need full suspension.

Road bike with drop bars

Q: Do I need clipless pedals?
A: No. 99% of us use them though. A few members use toe clip pedals. If you are new to clipless pedals, please practice clipping in and clipping out of them until you’ve mastered it before showing up to ride with us. We’re not being snobby and we usually are happy to help you build your skills. It’s a safety concern for you and the riders around you. Tip: Practice on grass and adjust your pedals/cleats to the lowest setting.

Q: Do I need to wear a helmet?
A: On club rides, yes.

Q: Can I wear headphones while riding?
A: On club rides, no. Besides, half of the reasons Boulder Cycling Club members ride with the club is to socialize. Mostly, it’s a safety issue. Headphones make communication between other riders much more difficult. It is also much more difficult to hear cars approaching from behind.

Q: Can I use my aero bars?
A: Only if you are more than 66 feet behind another rider at 15mph or less. That’s about 12 bike lengths. Again, it’s a safety issue.

Q: Why 66 feet?
A: Let’s do the math. 15 mph is 22 ft per second. Reaction time to move from aero bars to brakes is about 3 seconds. In that 3 seconds you’ll have traveled 66 feet.

Q: How much food/water should I bring?
A: This depends on the length of the ride, the intensity of the ride, and the weather. As a rule of thumb, start with at least 20 oz of water and 100 calories per hour of riding.

Q: Do I need to buy food/drink if I want to socialize after a ride?
A: Nope. We schedule many of our rides around breweries and a number of us will enjoy a beer after the ride. Many of them generously sponsor and support the club so we thank them with patronage. If you don’t drink or simply don’t want to spend money, that’s totally fine. There will be no pressure on you to do so. It’s unlikely anyone would even notice. If you do want to enjoy an alcoholic beverage, prepare to be carded and please be responsible about it.

Q: Should I ride or drive to the ride?
A: Up to you. Most meeting spots have ample parking. If you ride to an evening ride, bring your lights and possibly an extra layer for the ride home.

Q: Do I need to know how to fix a flat tire to ride with the club?
A: You really should learn how, but someone will be happy to give you a hand if you need help. At the absolute minimum, you need to bring a spare tube and a CO2 cartridge. It’s a good idea to be self sufficient, but it’s likely someone will have tire levers, a pump and a multi-tool. It’s not too difficult to change a tire. Stop by any of the great bike shops in Boulder and if they aren’t too busy they’ll show you how to do it. Or, keep an eye on our calendar for the next repair clinic.

BFF's right?

Q: Who are some other famous cyclists besides Lance Armstrong that I should know about?
A: Let’s cover a few pros that get coverage during the Tour de France, like Cadel Evans. He’s from Australia and won it in 2011. Let’s not forget Alberto Contador from Spain. He won in 2007 in one of the closest top 3 finishes in history. Then he won it again in 2009 after some drama with Lance Armstrong. Then there’s Andy Schleck. He’s from Luxembourg and he’s come really close to winning the Tour de France the last 5 years. There was major drama between him and Contador in the 2010 tour. Contador ended up winning that year as well largely due to that drama.

New Facebook Page

We’ll be shutting down the Facebook group and migrating everyone to the new Facebook Page. This has been long overdue, but we hope you’ll find it much more useful. You can use the wall to find a last minute ride, hear about events and discounts, and connect with other members. Head on over to https://www.facebook.com/BoulderCyclingClub and click like to get started. We’ll be shutting down the Facebook group at the end of the year so be sure to stay connected.

Survey

We want your feedback as we come together and make decisions about the club. Please take a few minutes and fill out our survey. Provide your name and you’ll be entered to win a free club jersey and one year free membership.

Online Survey

Contest

Increase your chances of winning the jersey and membership by liking us on Facebook. Tweet about us and earn another chance. Fill out the survey above (be sure to provide your name) and earn another entry. Earn more entries by inviting others to enter the contest. The more you share the better your chances of winning. One lucky winner will get a free club jersey and one year of membership for the club. Contest entry form is below.

Communication

If you remember nothing else, remember this, communication is paramount.  Nearly everything that helps reduce risk on a group ride can be traced back to communication. It is almost impossible to over communicate with other cyclists while riding in a group. As communication goes up, risk comes down. Vocal communication is often the most effective way to communicate with other riders as well as cars and pedestrians. Tell the other riders in your group your intentions and let them know if you have a mechanical problem and need to stop.

Let us know if it is your first time riding in a group. It can be a little intimidating, but we’ve all been there. No one will look down at you, but we will know to give you a little extra space and keep an eye out for you.

Hand Signals

Cyclists often use hand signals to indicate slowing/stopping, turns and road hazards. People have their own ways to indicate hazards and some will point out every manhole cover while others only point out potholes that are large enough to swallow a Buick. If it can cause a flat or someone to lose control, it’s worth pointing out. The closer you are riding to others, the more important this becomes. However, the catch 22 of hand signals is it requires you to take a hand off your handlebars, which can increase stopping distance or decrease your level of control while rolling over rougher patches of pavement. If you are breaking hard (something to be avoided in general, see below) don’t signal it with your hands, get those vocal chords vibrating and yell out “slowing” or “stopping”. Hazards can be pointed at, but some people will wave to the left behind their back. This usually means there is something unusual in the road ahead like a trash bin or a long patch of gravel. If someone in front of you points up, there is probably a low hanging branch.

Passing

On bike baths it is courteous to let pedestrians know you are about to pass them. Give them as much room as you can and  plenty of warning (3 seconds or more), and slow down while you pass. It’s a ride, not a race. Add 1 additional second of warning time for each adult in the group you are passing and 2 seconds for every child or dog in the group. Reduce your speed another 10% for each additional adult and 30% for each child.  It is also helpful to include the number cyclists in your group, like “8, on your left” or “group on your left”. Watch out for oncoming bikes passing pedestrians.

When passing bikes, always pass on the left, and announce yourself to the rider in front of you. If the road isn’t clear behind you on the left, don’t pass. You may lose some momentum, but it’s better than getting taken out by a car or another bike that is looking to pass you. Check over your right shoulder to make sure you don’t cut off the person you just passed. When you are checking behind you, hold your line. It is a natural tendency to drift left when looking over your left shoulder and vice versa. If someone is passing you, hold your line or move to the right if you can do so safely. It’s best for a group to pass other riders one at a time, single file. A little patience is sometimes required, but again, it’s better than being taken out by a car. Avoid passing while going around sharp corners. If for some reason, you must pass someone on the right side, be extremely vocal about it.

If you don’t know the route, don’t pass the ride leader. Some groups consider it poor form to continuously pass a person on the downhills and then get passed by the same person on the uphill. Others don’t care.

Drafting & Two Abreast

If you are in a group ride that allows close riding, again, the key here is communication. When in doubt, give yourself more space. Sometimes the only communication the rider in front of you will give is they stop pedaling or their back brake starts to close. It is true that the closer you are to rider in front of you, the more benefit you will get from drafting. You don’t, however, need to be a few inches away from the wheel in front of you to draft. Triathlon rules indicate a 7 meter draft zone because you can benefit from being even 2 bike lengths behind. It takes a while to get to know the cyclists you are riding with and it takes skill and predictability to safely ride really close together. Group rider newbies should keep a minimum of half a bike length. This puts your eyes in a great alignment to watch the rider’s feet and back brake at the same time. Also, using aero bars in a group is a big no-no, save them for your solo rides where they really shine.

How closely you can safely draft is largely a function of how well you know the other cyclists in the group. Knowing their strengths, weaknesses, and skill level allows you to better predict what they will do next. Either way, don’t overlap wheels. One of the most dangerous situations is for you to rub your front wheel against the back wheel of the person in front of you. The rear wheel on a bike doesn’t turn side to side, so the rider in front of you will probably be fine, but your front wheel does and you can easily lose control.

Colorado law allows for two abreast in bike lanes (if you are actually in the bike lane), on bike paths, and when you are not impeding the flow of traffic. 3 or 4 abreast can be done if you are have a very wide shoulder, but is generally best avoided. Regardless, use common sense and tuck into single file when a car is passing the group. If you find yourself having to fall into single file because there are a lot cars, just stay in single file. There are already enough malicious drivers out there that will intentionally try to run you off the road. Let’s do our best to not piss anyone off and create any more of them. It’s better to pick a different route than to pick a fight with a 3000 lb vehicle traveling at 55 mph. When going around blind corners, ride single file. Colorado Department of Transportation has put together the Bike Ped Manual for all laws specific to cycling in Colorado.

Braking & Hazards

Don’t slam on the brakes unless it is a true emergency. Road hazards (even prairie dogs) are not a true emergency. Nor do they warrant a hard swerve when riding closely in a group. Stand up in your pedals and ride it out. If you can, pull up slightly and lean back as your front wheel goes over the furry creature, then shift your weight forward as your back wheel rolls over the sucker. Remember, our urban development has killed or scared off most of the prairie dogs’ natural predators. Most likely they will scurry out of the way before you hit them anyways. Again, communicate with others as much as possible and pay attention to avoid these hazards.

It’s ok to feather your brakes to reduce your speed. Coasting is better than braking, but it tends to have a yo-yo effect on the riders behind you.  It’s best to soft pedal and sit up a little higher to let the air resistance slow you down, assuming that is enough to keep a safe distance from the wheel in front of you. Aim for smooth, steady and predictable. On the same note, while riding alone, practice holding your line when getting a drink from your water bottle. There is a natural tendency to drift to the side while doing this.

If the group is approaching a red light, announce “slowing” to make sure riders behind you know you are reducing your speed. The light may change before you get to it or you may have to come to a complete stop.  If you are coming to a stop sign, announce “stopping” since you have to come to a complete stop anyways. After starting up again, watch out for riders zig zagging while they try to clip back in and get up to speed. There are a few ways to avoid being that zig zagger:

• Practice clipping in without looking down and while holding your line
• Shift down to a much lower gear before you come to a stop.
• Don’t try to track-stand when stopped with other riders, no one cares how good you think you are

Really Big Groups

Centuries and charity rides can often start with really large groups (50-2000 riders). Ideally, you don’t want to have this as your very first experience riding in a group. It best to start out on a group ride of less than 10 people, but if you do find yourself riding with 300 of your closest friends, don’t worry, you’ll be ok. All of the above still applies and… you guessed it, communication is your best tool.

Most likely these rides will be organized and supported with aid stations and will require registration. Check with the organizer’s rules and ask if the roads will be open to traffic. Most likely, they will be unless it is a really big event. For rides with more than 500 people, you’ll probably be assigned into a wave of 50-100 others. This keeps things more manageable for the organizers and is generally more enjoyable and safer for the riders. Remember it’s a ride, not a race. You can push yourself hard, but it’s not worth getting yourself or others hurt. You are most vulnerable during the first 5-8 miles or until the group starts to spread out a little. Riding 4-6 abreast in the beginning is common, but might be illegal depending on other traffic. If you find yourself 6 abreast, change your speed to get out the situation to give yourself more room. It’s not worth it.

If there are aid stations, you’ll be expected stop and get off your bike before approaching the tables. If you decide to skip that station, keep your distance and slow down just like you would if you are passing pedestrians, because you are.

Cycling is a lot of fun and you are more visible to motorists in a group than riding solo. However, group riding can have its own risks. Communicate with the rest of your group and it should be smooth sailing for your first group ride.

From left to right "Dane Paulsen, Neil Paulsen, Tom Danielson and Malcolm Fraser"

Bacaro recently continued its tradition of supporting the cycling community by hosting an invitation only reception for Garmin-Cervelo’s victorious Tour De France team. Amongst those representing GC were Tom Danielson ( top US cyclist 9th and only 8 mins behind winner Cadel Evans after over 86 hours of cycling), Daniel Lloyd from Bournemouth, England and the team’s General Manager, Jonathan Vaughters. All are involved in the US Pro Cycling Challenge – Danielson was training on Super Flagstaff this past week.

The catered reception was held in perfect weather on the 2nd floor patio over looking Pearl Street. Many leaders of the local cycling community were present, together with Channel 9 news. Danielson, who lives here in Boulder, was kind enough to volunteer that “I am familiar with Boulder Cycling Club and support the work that you do”.

“Bacaro was pleased to have members of the Boulder Cycling Club come and lend their support at our event honoring the Garmin-Cervélo Tour de France team,” said Fabio Flagiello, Bácaro’s executive chef and organizer of the event.
Great job Fabio!

At rides and club gatherings we often get asked the following questions:

• Was the ride fun? Scenic? Hard?
• How well was the event organized?
• How was the food and what did they stock at the aid stations?
• Was it a good ride for beginners?
• Will you do it again next year?
• Was the entry fee worth it?
• Is it for a good cause?

Our goal is for website visitors to have a resource of collected thoughts and impressions of cycling events across Colorado and even out of state/country events. A longer term goal is to provide a fairly comprehensive list of rides and races in Colorado at the beginning of the season and allow you all to interact with each other to see who is thinking about signing up for the event and possibly find training partners.

Submit Your Report

As I mentioned, we need your stories and your experiences. Here’s how to submit them for inclusion.

1. Create an account and sign in.
2. Go to “Posts”, then “Add New”
3. Write your story. Include photos, your time, pros & cons and anything else you want to include. See editorial guidelines below.
4. Submit for approval.
5. One of our editors will review your submission and post it on the blog.  Just remember we’re all volunteers here so it may take a 5-8 days before you see your report posted. 

Editorial Guidelines

All Ride & Race Reports must be at least 200 words long and not to exceed 3000 words. An ideal length is about 500-600 words. Reports are limited to organized/supported rides (sorry, we won’t be publishing your epic weekend ride with couple of  friends just yet).  Only reports written by a cyclist participating in the event may be submitted; please do not submit a story about a friend who rode or include stories about an event you heard about. This is a family site, please no profanity, vulgar language, bigoted remarks and stuff like that.

It’s ok to make constructive criticisms and it is ok to write a negative review of an event.  Overtly negative reviews will require the author to confirm the intention of tone and we may contact the event organizer to allow them to respond to your story before we publish it. Reviews with personal attacks of fellow cyclists, event organizers, event sponsors or volunteers will be rejected and the author will be asked to edit before re-submitting. On the flip side, please no shameless marketing. Race & Ride organizers are allowed to submit reports under the following conditions: 1) You identify yourself as an organizer and 2) You actually rode in your own event.

Unless specifically asked to be excluded, content of your Ride Report may be used elsewhere on the site, in the club newsletter, Facebook, Twitter or other 3rd party sites. We will not share or sell any of your contact info though. That’s just rude. These guidelines are subject to change and the editors reserve the right to request changes and reject reports at their discretion. This just means there may be some questionable content that we can’t think of at the moment.

The long awaited Valmont Bike Park in Boulder opened today. We have some photos and videos for you to enjoy. Congrats to BMA, IMBA, and the City of Boulder on a job well done. There’s a terrain park, single track trails, and a cyclocross course. Plus a whole lot more. The new Valmont Bike Park is really and truly for all skill levels and all features are labeled using a XS-XL scale. This allows for progression, but also to help reduce the chance of someone accidentally getting in over their head.

Pictures

Videos

httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDs0SSVzjlU

httpvh://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkETgUbohBU